How big is my puppy going to get? Adult size depends on breed, sex, and overall health of your Pet. It can be difficult to predict the size of mixed breed puppies, but they generally will not be significantly larger than their biggest parent. Your veterinarian may be able to offer an idea of your puppy’s adult size. By providing a high quality diet, a healthy environment, and proper preventive medical care, you can help your puppy reach his or her happy, healthy adult growth potential.

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When should I have my puppy spayed/neutered? It is recommended that your female Pet be spayed or male Pet be neutered by six months of age. Spaying prevents unwanted pregnancy, prevents cancer of the reproductive system, eliminates the potential for infections of the uterus later in life, and reduces the potential for breast cancer, especially if performed before the first heat cycle. Neutering, or castration, of your male Pet eliminates the potential for cancer of the testicles and reduces the risk of prostate cancer and possibly a type of cancer that develops around the rectal area. The male is also no longer agitated by females and the strong hormonal drive to reproduce. He will tend to roam less, decreasing the potential to be hit by a car or otherwise injured, become lost, or be involved in territorial fights.

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What should I feed my puppy or dog? A high quality canine diet is essential for proper growth and development of your puppy and for maintenance of a happy, healthy adult. Table food, scraps, and cat food are not adequate to maintain the long term health of your canine companion. Given the huge number of foods available, choosing the proper diet for your puppy or dog can be a very confusing experience. Your Pet’s age, overall health, exercise level, environment, and breed can all be factors to consider in choosing the right diet. Consult your veterinarian for valuable advice on the best diet for your canine friend. Most veterinarians recommend a predominantly dry food diet for normal Pets as this will help maintain good tooth and gum health.

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How often should I bathe my dog? Bathing and general grooming are important parts of good coat and skin health for your Pet. The frequency will depend on coat length and type, activity level, environment, and overall health. A bath is appropriate whenever you want your canine friend to be clean and smell fresh. However, over frequent bathing, or use of harsh or drying products can dull the coat and cause dry, flaky, and sometimes itchy skin. When it is bath time, consider your Pet’s other grooming needs including nail trims, ear cleaning, coat brushing, and trimming if appropriate for your canine companion’s hair type. Consult a professional groomer for specific recommendations for your Pet.

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How can I trim my dog’s toenails? You should handle your Pet’s feet and nails frequently and from as early an age as possible. Make it a pleasant experience- offer a treat and lots of praise when he or she behaves positively during the handling. This will let him or her become used to having the toes and nails touched and allow for easier nail care.

Invest in a good nail trimmer- you will be glad you did. Canine nails contain nerves and blood vessels, or a "quick", just like ours. The pinkish colored quick is usually easy to see in light colored nails. It may be impossible to visualize in dark nails. Excessively long nails may have a significantly outgrown quick. If you can’t see the quick, trim very small bits at a time from the end of the nail. You may need to repeat this frequently with over grown nails. Be prepared with a commercial styptic powder to apply to nails that may accidentally be cut to short and bleed. If you are uncomfortable with trimming nails at home, have a professional groomer trim your Pet.

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What vaccines does my puppy or dog need and how often? Having your puppy properly vaccinated is one of the most important ways to keep him or her happy and healthy. Vaccines protect against many serious and even fatal diseases.

The following vaccines are absolutely imperative to your canine companion’s health:

Distemper/Parvo Combination: This vaccine protects against several potentially fatal diseases.
Rabies: This disease is fatal for all mammals, including humans. These vaccines are very highly recommended and can prevent very serious diseases.
Bordetella: (Kennel Cough) This vaccine helps prevent or reduce the severity of this serious respiratory infection that can lead to pneumonia.
Corona Virus: This is an intestinal virus that can cause serious disease.
Lyme Disease: This is the same tick borne disease that humans can be infected with.

How much will vaccines cost for my puppy? Vaccine costs vary widely based on location and whether they are administered by medical professionals during an examination or by others. Proper vaccination for your puppy or kitten is one of the most important investments in your Pet’s life long good health. Some people chose to purchase the least expensive products possible and administer then at home. The cheapest option is not always best. Almost anyone can follow the manufacturers’ directions for administration. However, only qualified veterinary professionals can advise you on what is best for your Pet, determine if your Pet is healthy enough to safely receive vaccines, effectively and promptly treat possible reactions, and diagnose and treat other health problems during examination. It is also important for vaccines to be shipped, stored and handled properly to be effective. Vaccines administered by a veterinarian are your best and safest option.

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My dog has fleas, what should I do? Start a complete flea control program immediately. Fleas live by sucking the blood of your Pets. They can bite humans as well. Fleas can cause discomfort by biting, anemia, skin allergies, spread disease, and transmit tapeworms. Spare your Pet the discomfort of a continued infestation.

An effective flea control program MUST address three points: treatment of the Pet (or Pets), the entire house (and car or motor home), and the yard ( deck, garage, etc.). All Pets that can contract fleas MUST be treated ( fish, birds, reptiles, and small and furry Pets don’t need treatment). There are many safe and effective products for adult Pets as well as puppies and kittens (ferrets and rabbits too).

For house and vehicle treatment, begin with very thorough vacuuming. Be sure to get under everything- furniture, rugs, etc. Don’t forget the basement or garage. Throw out the vacuum bag after use to prevent fleas from crawling back out. After cleaning, use a professional bomb or premise spray according to the label directions. Treat the entire area, even places not frequented by your Pet. You may need to vacuum and treat furniture according to the manufacturers’ recommendations as well. Be sure to remove all Pets and family members from the area while spraying and until it is safe to return them.

Don’t forget the environment. Treat as much of the yard as possible with a professional flea spray according to the label directions. Be sure to treat areas where your Pet spends time, including decks or dog houses. Fleas like to hide in bark dust and leaf litter as well.

For safe and effective use, always read and follow the label directions for all flea control products.

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What can I use for my dog’s dry skin? That depends on what is causing the dry skin. Consider a veterinary exam to insure your canine companion is not suffering from a medical condition that may require treatment. For simple, mild "dandruff", without any accompanying problems, there are several steps that may help.

Chose a premium diet for your Pet. Diet influences overall health, including skin and coat condition. Some premium diets contain specific, balanced, fatty acids ratios that will frequently improve skin condition and reduce simple dry skin. If the premium diet you choose does not contain a balanced fatty acid supplement, consider adding one to your Pet’s diet. Not any type of "fat" will do. Vegetable oil, grease, butter, or bacon fat are NOT appropriate choices. For best results, fatty acids called "Omega 6 & Omega 3" must be fed in specific ratios. Numerous "Omega" fatty acid supplements exist. Always use mild grooming products. Consider a skin and coat conditioner as well. Don’t over bathe- this can cause significant skin dryness. In some cases, a shampoo that helps loosen excess skin flakes may be needed. Routine brushing and coat trims when appropriate may help as well. Expect to notice MORE "dandruff" for a few days after grooming. Bathing and brushing often loosen surface skin flakes for a few days or until the excess flakes are brushed out of the coat.

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My dog is shedding, what should I do? Shedding is normal for most canine breeds. A few breeds, such as Poodles, do not shed significantly and need routine coat trims. Pets that shed will do so throughout the year. Shedding is often increased in spring and fall, during stress, illness, and during pregnancy or nursing. Routine coat brushing and grooming will reduce the amount of hair your Pet leaves on furniture and on you. There are some coat care products that may have partial effectiveness to reduce shedding. A veterinary examination is appropriate if you feel the shedding is really excessive or any skin or general health problems exist. There are medical conditions that can increase shedding.

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What can I use to stop my dog from itching? That really depends on why your Pet is itchy. Many skin conditions, some of them serious, can cause excess itching and scratching. Consider a veterinary examination for your canine companion to determine if any medical conditions exist or if treatment is needed. This is especially important if your Pet has any skin redness, scabs, or sores. Common reasons for a healthy Pet with normal skin to itch are fleas, dry skin, or a coat in need of grooming.

Purchase a flea comb and use it at least weekly to look for evidence of fleas. Fleas are very good at hiding from you. Often, you may not notice fleas until the infestation is already severe. A flea comb lets you spot the problem early. Comb through your Pets coat, several times, down to the skin from the shoulders to tail base. Look for fleas, or flea dirt in the comb. Flea dirt will look like small black pepper specs or be shaped like a comma. Fleas may also be visible scurrying across your Pet’s abdomen (where the hair coat is usually thinner and easier to see through). See the section on flea control for additional information.

Dry skin can be very itchy. It is usually accompanied by excess "dandruff" or skin flaking. A matted, oily, or dirty coat can also cause discomfort that leads to scratching. Consider the following steps to help dry skin problems.

Chose a premium diet for your Pet. Diet influences overall health, including skin and coat condition. Some premium diets contain specific, balanced, fatty acids ratios that will frequently improve skin condition and reduce simple dry skin.

If the premium diet you choose does not contain a balanced fatty acid supplement, consider adding one to your Pet’s diet. Not any type of "fat" will do. Vegetable oil, grease, butter, or bacon fat are NOT appropriate choices. For best results, fatty acids called "Omega 6 & Omega 3" must be fed in specific ratios. Numerous "Omega" fatty acid supplements exist. Always use mild grooming products. Consider a skin and coat conditioner as well. Don’t over bathe- this can cause significant skin dryness. In some cases, a shampoo that helps loosen excess skin flakes may be needed. Routine brushing and coat trims when appropriate may help as well. Expect to notice MORE "dandruff" for a few days after grooming. Bathing and brushing often loosen surface skin flakes for a few days or until the excess flakes are brushed out of the coat.

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How can I housebreak my puppy? Your puppy will not automatically know it is inappropriate to soil in the house - it is your job to teach him or her how to be a good family member. No one wants to deal with the soil, odor, time, and expense that can result from poor house training. Proper training requires much time, patience, and consistency on your part.

Several strategies exist for training: crate, paper, litter box training, etc. Crate training is often the best choice- while learning not to soil in the house, your puppy also learns to accept the crate as a safe, secure area. Dogs instinctively want a safe "den" or resting area and usually learn not to soil it. A crate offers a perfect choice. Many crate trained dogs will tend to be less anxious when kenneled for any reason- at the groomer, veterinarian, or boarding facility, because they are familiar with a crate or kennel environment. It is very important to choose a crate size and type that is appropriate for your Pet and use the crate properly. Ask a Pet care professional for help and specifics for choosing the right crate.

The goal is to train your puppy to soil only in a designated spot outside, in a litter box or a papered area. Paper or litter box training is appropriate for small dogs that will not have regular access to the outdoors. Your puppy should immediately be taken to the designated area upon waking in the morning, and frequently though out the day. Praise the puppy when he or she uses the area to pass wastes. Do not leave young puppies crated all day. Puppies 6-8 weeks old should be crated for no more than 4 hours at a time. As the puppy grows, crating time can gradually be lengthened to a maximum of 8 hours by 18-20 weeks of age.

Immediately clean up in "accidents" and use an odor remover. If you catch your puppy having an "accident", take him or her immediately to the designated soil area. You may even need to leave a small amount of waste in the spot to help your puppy understand that this is his or her toilet area. Don’t discipline the puppy if you find an "accident" after the fact. He or she will not understand what the scolding is for. Many good training materials exist to help you- books, videos, professional trainers, and Pet care professionals.

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How can I stop my dog from barking all the time? Dogs bark for many reasons, including boredom, in play, aggression, fear, and as a form of protection or warning, etc. Expect your dog to bark in these situations. If the barking is excessive, your Pet will benefit from basic obedience training that includes ways to reduce barking behaviors. Making a loud noise when barking occurs or teaching a "no bark" command may be helpful as well. Dogs should be taught to lay or sit quietly on command with positive reinforcement methods. Contact a qualified obedience trainer for additional suggestions.

In nuisance barking cases when training has failed, you may need to consider a "bark" collar. These usually work by delivering a small electric shock or an unpleasant odor or noise to a Pet when he or she makes a loud noise. Be sure to follow all product label directions and use common sense when trying such a product.

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How can I stop my puppy from biting? Puppies need to chew and will! However, they should never be allowed to bite or mouth your hands, even in play. If so, they will think it is all right to bite. Play bites in a six week old puppy can easily become obnoxious, painful, or dangerous as your puppy grows. There are many methods to discourage biting. Start this training as young as possible, even at six weeks of age. A few common methods include:

As a bite occurs, immediately hold the puppy’s mouth closed (firmly, but not painfully) for a few seconds as you give a firm "no bite" command. Repeat this EVERY time your puppy bites. Immediately as a bite occurs, give a firm "no bite" command and put the puppy on the ground or in a "time out" space (crate, etc.), walk away, and ignore him or her for at least 5 minutes. This usually only works for younger or smaller puppies that can easily and quickly be placed in their "puppy time out" area or those puppies that already kennel well on command. Repeat this EVERY time your puppy bites.

Puppies may often try to challenge you by repeated, rapid, or even aggressive biting. Don’t let them have the last bite! If so, you will be teaching them that persistent or aggressive behavior will give them their way. Offer your puppy chew toys instead of your hands, clothing, shoes, or household items. They must have something to chew and play with. Numerous resources exist to help you. Consider contacting a qualified obedience trainer or purchasing a good training book.

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What type of toys should I get for my puppy? Many wonderful Pet toys are available. The following points can make your choices easier.

Choose toys appropriate to your puppy’s size ( don’t forget how quickly he or she is going to grow). Toys should NOT be small enough to swallow or have easily chewed off pieces that can be swallowed. Some soft plastic toys can easily and quickly be reduced to many small pieces by sharp puppy teeth. Hard rubber, chew resistant, toys are better choices. Items made of food material, like starch, rawhide, or vegetables may be appropriate as long as you monitor your puppy while chewing. He or she should still not be allowed to ingest very large pieces or chew items that have become excessively dirty, soiled with body wastes, moldy, or spoiled. Don’t allow ingestion of the large, whole, extremely hard knots in the ends of some rawhide products. These may be so firmly knotted that digestion can be very difficult and lead to possible intestinal blockage. Strings, rubber bands, balloons, children’s toys, clothing, and shoes are not appropriate chew toys.

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Is rawhide ok for my dog? Yes, if some simple precautions are taken. Always buy clean, high quality rawhide that does not have an unpleasant odor or appear spoiled. Monitor your puppy while chewing. He or she should not be allowed to swallow very large pieces or chew items that have become excessively dirty, soiled with body wastes, moldy, or spoiled. Don’t allow ingestion of the large, whole, extremely hard knots in the ends of some rawhide products. These may be so firmly knotted that digestion can be very difficult and lead to possible intestinal blockage.

Chewing on appropriate rawhide products can help reduce dental plaque build up and gingivitis for your Pet. The action of chewing helps pull soft debris off the teeth before it can harden into actual tartar and become trapped against the gums contributing to gum disease. Good "chew" items are an important part of a complete home dental care plan for your Pet.

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I think my dog has worms, what should I do? Intestinal parasites can cause severe and life threatening disease. Several canine and feline parasites are transmissible to humans as well. There are many more parasites than the roundworms and tapeworms that commonly come to mind. Hookworms, whipworms, and other worms can cause serious and even life threatening disease. Numerous disease causing microscopic parasites exist also. Many intestinal parasites, including tapeworms, are not effectively treatable with over-the-counter dewormers. A veterinary examination, stool examination, and appropriate treatment is the best way to keep your canine friend happy, healthy, and parasite free while reducing concerns for your human family members.

Animals with worms may show no obvious outward signs of infection. Normal bowel movements do not rule out the possibility of parasite infection. However, when signs are present they can include diarrhea, or blood tinged stool, mucous in the stool, variation in appetite, poor hair coat, weight loss, and vague signs of abdominal or rectal discomfort, abdominal enlargement, scooting of the hindquarters, and excess licking or irritation around the anus. Some parasites can cause severe blood loss and even death, especially in young, weak, or malnourished Pets.

Occasionally, worms may be seen in the stool of infected Pets. In the stool, adult roundworms and hookworms will appear as small to large, off-white to tan, spaghetti shaped parasites. Human infection with roundworms and hookworms is possible. Although human infection occurs infrequently, it can cause very significant problems. Dogs and cats become infected with roundworms by eating worm eggs from contaminated soil or stool, or by eating infected rodents. Hookworms are contracted by ingestion of microscopic larval by mouth or from larval entry through skin, usually on the feet.

Tapeworms will appear as small, off-white to tan segments in stool or clinging to hair around the genital area. Fresh segments will be white, about 1/4-1/2 inch long, and may expand and contract. Dry segments resemble sesame seeds or rice grains and will be darker in color. Most tapeworms are not directly passed from Pet to Pet, but require an intermediate host. Common intermediate hosts include fleas and small rodents. Pets will become reinfested with tapeworms if these hosts are not controlled.

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I think my Pet has tapeworms, what should I do? A veterinary examination, stool examination, and appropriate treatment is the best way to keep your canine friend happy, healthy, and parasite free. Oral and injectable deworming medications are available. Over the counter dewormers are not effective against most tapeworms.

The tapeworm is a parasite found in the intestines of many Pets. Worm segments containing eggs are shed and passed into the stool, leaving the tapeworm head still attached in the intestine to produce new segments. Of the most common types of canine and feline tapeworms, infection occurs by ingestion of an infected flea or infected wild prey (including rodents) to infest the intestinal tract.

Tapeworms can cause diarrhea or blood tinged stool, variation in appetite, poor hair coat, weight loss, and vague signs of abdominal discomfort. Diagnosis of tapeworm is made by finding the segments in an infected Pet’s stool or clinging to hair around the genital area. Fresh segments will be white, about 1/4 - 1/2 inch long, and may expand and contract. Dry segments resemble sesame seeds or rice grains. Most tapeworms are not directly passed from Pet to Pet, but require an intermediate host. Common intermediate hosts include fleas and small rodents. Pets will become reinfested with tapeworms if these hosts are not controlled.

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Does my puppy need vitamins? A high quality canine diet is essential for proper growth and development of your puppy and for maintenance of a happy, healthy adult. This includes a good balance of vitamins and minerals. Table food, scraps, and cat food are not adequate to maintain the long term health of your canine companion.

Growing puppies, geriatric Pets, as well as stressed, pregnant, nursing, or ill Pets, and those recovering from surgery, can all benefit from appropriate vitamin supplementation. Chose a supplement designed for your Pet’s needs. Given the huge number of supplements and foods available, choosing the proper items for your puppy or dog can be a very confusing experience. Your Pet’s age, overall health, exercise level, environment, and breed can all be factors to consider in choosing the right diet and supplement. Your veterinarian or Pet care professional can offer valuable advice on the best products for your canine friend.

Why is my dog scratching at his/her ears? An occasional scratch is normal. However, scratching or pawing at the ears or head can be an indication of ear infection, foreign bodies, injury, excess ear wax, or skin problems. Some ear problems may not be easily visible and require a deep ear exam by a veterinarian to be properly to evaluated. Any discharge, odor, redness, pain, swelling, or masses may indicate an infection or other abnormality. If you suspect your Pet has an ear problem, visit your veterinarian immediately. Prompt treatment offers a better prognosis, reduces the potential for chronic disease, hearing loss, and gives earlier relief for any discomfort your Pet may have.

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Do I need to brush my dog’s teeth? Yes! Home dental care is one of the best ways to help keep your Pet’s teeth and gums healthy. Start as early as possible in your canine friend’s life so he or she will become accustomed to having the mouth handled. Use a moistened, soft, Pet or child’s toothbrush, finger tooth brush, gauze around a finger, or a cotton swab. Pet tooth paste is your best option. Stay away from human tooth paste, baking soda or salt. Use gentle brushing motions to clean the teeth and gums, as you would your own. Most Pets will not allow you to brush the inside surface of the teeth, but at least clean the outside (cheek) surfaces. Be sure to reach the back upper molars and canines. These teeth tend to quickly build up tartar. Your Pet’s teeth should be brushed as often as possible, ideally every day. There are numerous dental care products, pastes, solutions, brushes, chew toys, dental diets, etc. Let your veterinarian or Pet care professional help you chose the best products for your Pet. Pets that have a significant tartar build up or gingivitis may need a veterinary dental cleaning to prevent serious oral disease that can shorten your Pet’s life if left untreated.

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Do I need to clean my dog’s ears? Yes! Cleaning and caring for your Pet’s ears are important ways to reduce the chance for ear infections and excess wax build up. Routine cleaning and at home examination lets you detect any infections or other problems early. If you suspect your Pet already has an ear problem, visit your veterinarian immediately. Prompt treatment offers a better prognosis, reduces the potential for chronic disease, hearing loss, and gives earlier relief for any discomfort your Pet may have. Any discharge, odor, excess scratching, pawing, or rubbing at the ears, redness, pain, swelling, or masses may indicate an infection or other abnormality.

To clean normal ears, choose a mild ear cleaner specifically for use in Pets. Don’t use vinegar, alcohol, or hydrogen peroxide routinely. These substances can be irritating to some dogs and painful to an already inflamed ear canal. There are several types of cleaners to choose from. Some cleaners break up wax, while others dry the ear canal. There are combination products as well. Consult a professional groomer, Pet care associate, or veterinarian for the best options for your Pet.

Ear cleaning starts with good general grooming. Excess, dirty, or matted hair should be removed from around the ear canal and the ear flap. Heavy, matted, or constantly moist ear flaps, surrounding hair, and excessively hairy ear canals will decrease air flow to the ear canal, trap wax and other debris, and can lead to infection. In some Pets, excess hair may need to be gently removed from inside the ear canal. This must be done carefully to avoid canal damage and minimize discomfort. Consider having a professional groomer or medical professional remove the hair if needed.

After grooming the ear area, it is time to actually clean out the ear canals. Always be gentle! The ear canals and flaps are sensitive. Overly aggressive cleaning can actually cause damage to the delicate ear structures. Pick up an ear flap and dribble a small amount (a few drops) of the appropriate ear cleaning solution into the ear. The solution should flow down deep into the canal. Massage gently at the ear base for 10-20 seconds - you will probably hear the solution "squish" around as you massage. This should not be painful for your Pet. If it is, have him or her examined by your veterinarian. Repeat the cleaning procedure with the other ear canal. After massaging, stand back and let your Pet shake his or her head to bring softened wax up out of the ear canals. Use clean cotton balls to gently wipe out and up the canal, removing any wax, debris, or cleaning solution you see. For small dogs, you may need to use cotton balls that have been pulled in half. Avoid cotton swabs, unless your Pet will be very still and allow ear care without moving the head. Even in that case, never place the swab any farther into the ear canal than you can see. A cotton swab placed too deeply or forcefully into the ear can cause ear drum damage, pain, and hearing loss.

How often your will need to clean depends on your Pet’s breed, hair coat, activities, age, and amount of ear wax he or she produces. Most dogs with normal ears should have a cleaning at least once a month. Others may need more frequent cleanings, especially those that swim or get the ears wet regularly.

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The inside corners of my dog’s eyes are always messy - do I need to clean them? Yes, any excess mucous, secretions, tears, or matter should be routinely cleaned from these areas. Most Pets will collect a small amount of eye secretion or debris at the inside eye lid corners, just like we do. Some breeds, especially many toy dogs, can produce a large amount of tears or debris and may also have chronic hair staining at the eyelid corners from proteins in the tears. However, be sure NOT to mistake an eye infection or other problem for "normal" eye secretions. If your Pet has any eye redness, swelling, pain, excess discharge, loss of vision, changes from normal eye ball appearance, excess blinking or pawing at the eyes, he or she may have an infection or problem. If you have any concerns about your Pet’s eyes, see your veterinarian immediately.

To clean normal tears or debris from the eyelids, use a moistened, soft, clean cloth, cotton ball, or tissue to gently wipe any secretions away. Avoid rubbing or touching the eye ball, as this can cause injury to delicate eye structures. If a large amount of debris has built up, you may need to soak the area with your moist cloth to soften the secretions before removal. Some Pets may need this cleaning repeated daily. Many breeds with long facial hair will greatly benefit from careful trimming or grooming to keep hair out of the eyes. If you choose to trim this hair yourself, use care to avoid injury to the eye or eye lids. Consider using a professional groomer as well.

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